Bakers Put New Twist On Hand Pies..

Remember Pop-Tarts? If you recall those ubiquitous, jam-filled, cardboard-textured relics of childhood, they've likely left a bad taste in your mouth. But while the execution of the preservative-filled treats was lacking, the idea remains a good one. And that has not escaped the attention of some chefs, who are reinventing the classic little hand pies as haute-tarts, encasing organic artisanal jams and savory pumpkin-sage mixtures between squares of flaky, tender pastry and serving them up in swanky hotels, luxe patisseries and casual cafes alike. At Trace in San Francisco's W Hotel, the breakfast menu includes a Kadota fig-filled tart with lemon glaze. And Tender Greens, the fresh,seasonal cafe that opened in downtown Walnut Creek, Calif., last year, the haute-tarts range from savory to sweet, including a s'mores tart and one filled with fresh blueberries and finished with an eye-popping violet glaze. The trend is easy to understand, pastry chefs and bakers say. These riffs on Pop-Tarts tap into our deepest, most nostalgic longings for childhood-while satisfying our grown-up palates. Besides, they're adorable. "There's something intensely magical about homemade pop tarts," says Alana Chernila, the Massachusetts author of "The Homemade Pantry Cookbook" {Clarkson Potter, $24.95, 288 pages}. "They appeal to the kid in everyone." The only problem is, the commercial Pop-Tarts of our youth were made to withstand travel by lunchbox and backpack, not to mention trips through the toaster. They are Sturdy, with a capital S-and sturdy is not a word you ever want to associate with pastry. So when Kim Laidlaw, the San Francisco author of "Williams-Sonoma Home Baked Comfort" {Weldon Owen, $34.95, 224 pages} took a trip down memory lane and bit into the cherry Pop-Tart that had been her childhood fave, her taste-memory collided with reality. Badly. There was just one thing to do. Make her own toaster-style tart. Some bakers, such as Sarah Billingsley and Rachel Wharton, authors of "Handheld Pies" {Chronicle Books, $19.95, 144 pages}, go the classic pate brisee-the classic butter-rich pie dough-route, and fill them with orange marmalade and mascarpone, or tomatoes, mozzarella and prosciutto. Others opt for the puff pastry direction. Executive chef Sean Canavan, who left San Francisco's Bluestem Brasserie, last spring to take over the top slot at Tender Greens, calls his dough "an in-between, a blitz puff pastry where you intentionaly leave streaks of butter in your dough, which later on form your layers." And just because the childhood classic calls for rectangles covered in nonpareil sprinkles doesn't make the parallelogram a requirement. The little tarts are every bit as delicious when they're cut into circles, hearts or triangles. "People have always made hand pies," Canavan says. And the small size has an added advantage: one pastry, many different flavors. Also key: exerting a little self-control as you fill them. "It's a balance. You want a good crust-to-filling ratio, but don't get overzealous," Chernila says. Seal them patiently, using a fork to crimp the edges securely. But beware the toaster-a really lovely pastry crust lacks the structural integrity of a tough, sturdy one. "You're making pie, and everything is good in pie," Chernila says, "That's a rule."

SAVORY PUMPKIN POP-TART

Pastry Dough:
8 1/2 ounces flour, sifted
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
8 ounces cold butter, cut in cubes
2 egg yolks
1/4 cup milk
Pumpkin Filling:
1/2 pound Fairytale or Cinderella pumpkin
2 ounces butter
1 tablespoon brown sugar
Pinch nutmeg
Salt, pepper to taste
2 ounces pecans, coarsely chopped
1/2 tablespoon chopped sage
1 tablespoon mascarpone cheese, optional
Egg wash: 1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water
1. Combine flour, sugar and salt in an electric mixer. Add butter to the dry ingredients. Using the paddle attachment, knead dough until butter is the size of marbles. Mix yolks and milk; add to flour mixture, mix until dough barely comes together.
2. Transfer dough to work surface and with your hands, press dough until it just comes together. There should be visible streaks of butter throughout. Form into a disk and chill for 4 hours.
3. Dice pumpkin into 1/2-inch pieces. In a heavy saute pan, heat the butter until it starts to brown slightly. Add pumpkin, brown sugar, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Saute until nicely browned and tender.
4. Add chopped pecans and sage. Transfer to a bowl and cool completely. Mix in mascarpone.
5. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Divide dough in half and roll out 1/8-inch thick. Cut into 3-by-4-inch rectangles. Repeat with other half.
6. Lay half the pastry rectangles on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Place a dollop of filling in the center of each, leaving enough space to crimp the sides. Brush the edges with egg wash; top with another pastry rectangle. Crimp edges with a fork and cut a small incision in the top to vent steam. Bake for about 12 minutes or until golden brown.
-Sean Canavan, executive chef, Tender Greens

BLUEBERRY POP TARTS WITH BLUEBERRY GLAZE

Makes 6-8
Pastry Dough:
8 1/2 ounces flour
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
8 ounces cold butter, cut in cubes
2 egg yolks
1 1/2 ounces whole milk
FILLING:
1 pint fresh blueberries
3 tablespoons granulated sugar, or to taste
1/8 teaspoon salt 
Zest, juice of 1/2 a lemon
GLAZE:
10 ounces powdered sugar
3-5 tablespoons blueberries
1. In a mixer fitted with a paddle, combine flour, sugar, salt and butter, mixing until butter is the size of marbles. Combine yolks and milk; add to flour mixture all at once. Mix until dough barely comes together. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least one hour.
2. Dust work surface with flour and roll dough out about 1/8-inch thick. Cut into 4-to-5-inch circles. Cover and chill.
3. For the filling: Combine blueberries, sugar, salt and lemon zest in a saucepan over medium heat. Stirring frequently, cook until thick and bubbly, 10-15 minutes. Add lemon juice. Let cool.
4. For the glaze, puree 3 t0 5 tablespoons blueberries until smooth. Strain through a sieve. Mix puree, a tablespoon at a time, into the powdered sugar until the glaze is thick but spreadable.
5. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Place half the pastry rounds on parchment-lined baking sheets. Place a heaping tablespoon of filling onto each round; wet edges with a little water. Top with remaining rounds, pressing edges to seal. Bake until golden brown, 15-20 minutes. Let cool
6. Spread glaze over each tart. Let set, then serve.

-Annette Picha, pastry chef, Tender Greens

SOUR CHERRY "TOASTER" TART

Makes: 12
DOUGH:
2 cups flour
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut in chunks
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk
FILLING:
3/4 cup sour cherry jam
2 teaspoons cornstarch mixed with 1 teaspoon cold water
1 large egg beaten with 1 teaspoon warm water
GLAZE:
1 cup confectioners' sugar, sifted
2 teaspoons whole milk
2 teaspoons corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Sprinkles {optional}
1. In a food processor, combine flour, sugar and salt. Add butter and process until it looks like coarse crumbs. Add yolk and milk; process until dough just comes together. Dump dough onto 2 large sheets of overlapping plastic wrap. Press into a disk, wrap and chill 30 minutes or overnight.
2. In a saucepan, cook jam and cornstarch mixture over medium heat, stirring, until slightly thickened and bubbly.
3. Line two baking sheets with parchment. On a lightly floured surface, divide dough in half; form into rectangles. Roll one out to 16 by 9 inches. Using a ruler and pizza cutter, cut dough into 12 3-by-4-inch rectangles. Set on a baking sheet and chill while you repeat with remaining dough.
4. Lightly brush half the rectangles with beaten egg. Dollop a tablespoon of cooled filling into the center of each. Spread it, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Top with a plain dough rectangle, pressing edges together with your fingertips. Crimp edges. Put 6 tarts on each baking sheet, and prick the centers all over with the fork. Refrigerate.
5. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake tarts, rotating halfway through, until golden brown, 15-18 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack; glaze.
6. Whisk glaze ingredients until smooth. Spread on the tarts and decorate, if you like.

Kim Laidlaw, "Williams-Sonoma Home Baked Comfort" {Weldon Owen, $34.95, 224 pages}

Turkey Turnovers

Serves 8
2 cups cooked turkey, shredded
1 cup cheddar cheese {about 4 ounces}, shredded
1 cup cooked broccoli, chopped
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 8-ounce packages refrigerated crescent rolls
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Combine all of the ingredients except the crescent rolls in a large bowl.
Separate each package of crescent rolls into four squares; press diagonal perforations to seal.
Spoon the turkey filling onto the center of each square. Fold the dough diagonally over filling to form triangles and press edges firmly to seal.
Arrange the turnovers on a baking sheet and brush the tops lightly with additional mayonnaise.
Bake 12 minutes or until the turnovers are golden.
Serve warm.

Take What's Great About A Pie, and Put It All In Your Hand..

Take everything you love about pie-that rich, flaky crust cradling your favorite filling-and downsize it into a compact package. Behold the little wonder that is the hand pie. Convenient, simple and, dare we say it-terribly cute-it's pie's answer to the cupcake, without the fussy decorations. Best of all? Just like a cupcake, you don't have to share. We have been baking a lot of the little guys of late, and we are totally smitten. Simple to make, there's not much to a hand pie: Sandwich your favorite filling of choice between a couple layers of dough and bake until golden brown. Voila! We love how versatile it is. Sweet or savory, the hand pie is an easy choice., whether you're planning snacks, a main dish or dessert. Enjoy a batch at home or pack them to go-no plates or forks required. Short of a sandwich, can a meal get any more portable when you're on the run. Simple as it may be, there are ways to make a good hand pie great. First, consider the crust. The ratio of crust to filling is greater with a hand pie than with a normal slice of pie, and will be noticed from the first to last bite. You want your crust to make a good impression, with good flavor and texture. We have seen hand pies with short crusts and crunchy crusts; some are even baked with a puff pastry, like turnovers. Personally, we prefer a flaky pie crust, rich and buttery yet delicate, practically shattering with every bite. As for filling, get creative. Use seasonal fruit as an inspiration for a sweet pie, or riff on a hearty dish-Irish stew, perhaps, or curried lamb-when you're craving something savory. Keep in mind that, because the pies are small, any ingredients that go into the filling should be diced so they don't burst through the dough. Large apple wedges or carrot slices won't work. Finally, if you cook the filling separately, be sure it has been chilled completely before filling the pies so it doesn't warm the dough. Form the pies however you like. You can roll out the dough into a large sheet and cut out squares or other creative shapes, re-rolling the scraps to form additional pies. We prefer to portion the dough beforehand, carefully rolling each into a circle to form simple half moons pies; eliminates scraps, which need to be re-rolled and tend to be tough and not as attractive. Once they're ready to go, the little pies bake in maybe half the time it would take a standard pie-a whole sheet of them puffed, golden brown and temptingly fragrant. And just like cupcakes, each little pie is a convenient  compact individual serving. Perfect for portion control. That is, if you can eat just one.

Apple Hand Pies

Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes, plus chilling time for the filling and pies
Servings: 12
1/2 cup raisins
1 cup rum, brandy or water
1/4 cup {1/2 stick} butter
4 large tart apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored and diced into 1/4 inch pieces
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup toasted pecan pieces
Prepared pie dough for 2 single crust {9-to 10-inch} pies, 36 to 40 ounces
1 beaten egg
Coarse or decorating sugar for garnishing the pies
1. Rehydrate the raisins: In a small saucepan, combine the raisins with the rum, brandy or water, and heat over medium heat until the raisins are softened and plump. Drain the raisins before adding to the apples.
2. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Stir in the apple slices, brown sugar, cinnamon and salt, and cook, stirring frequently, just until the apple starts to soften, 3 to 4 minutes {the slices should be crisp.} Remove from heat and stir in the raisins and toasted pecans. Spread the apple mixture onto a baking sheet to stop the cooking process and allow the apples to cool quickly, then cover and refrigerate until needed. This makes about 4 cups filling, slightly more than is needed for 12 pies; the extra filling can be eaten right away or used later to flavor pancakes or muffins or as a topping for ice cream. The filling will keep for up to 4 days, covered and refrigerated.
3. Divide the prepared pie dough into 12 even pieces, about 3 ounces each, and shape each into a small disk. On lightly floured board, carefully roll each piece into a circle about 6 inches in diameter and about one-eighth-inch thick. The dough will be flaky and will probably crack on the edges; without working the dough too much, gently mold the dough with your hands as it's rolled to form as perfect a circle as possible. Carefully st the circle aside and continue rolling until al of the circles are formed.
4. Brush the inside of each circle with a very light coating of beaten egg, going all the way to the edge of the circle. Place roughly one-fourth cup of the apple filling in the center of each circle, slightly off to one side {to make it easier to fold over the dough to form hand pie}, but leaving a 1-inch border around the edge on one side. Carefully-this can be tricky-fold over half of the dough, lining the edges up to form a half-circle; you may need to support the dough as it's folded over to keep from cracking. Gently press the edges down to seal the pie. Trim the edges to clean them up, or gently brush the top of the edge of each pie, then fold the edge in for a cleaner looking edge. Continue until all 12 pies are formed.
5. Place the prepared pies on 2 parchment-lined baking sheets and refrigerate them, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 400 degrees.
6. Remove the chilled pies and brush them with the egg wash. Use a small knife to slash 2 to 3 small steam vents in the top of each pie. Dust each pie with a sprinkling of coarse sugar.

7. Bake the pies, 1 sheet at a time {refrigerate the other sheet until ready to bake,} on the center rack until pastry is puffed and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Rotate the pies halfway through baking for even coloring. Cool on a wire rack. The pies can be served warm or at room temperature.
Each hand pie:
515 calories
6 grams protein
49 grams carbohydrates
3 grams fiber
33 grams fat
14 grams saturated fat
64 mg cholesterol
12 grams sugar
435 mg sodium

Flaky Pie Dough

Total time: 20 minutes, plus chilling time
Servings: Enough dough for 6 hand pies or 1 {9-to 10-inch} single-crust pie
NOTE: The recipe can easily be doubled to make 12 hand pies. If using a food processor, process one batch at a time, as most processors are not big enough to handle a double batch at once.
The dough, with sugar, can be used for sweet or savory pies, as the sugar is not enough to noticeably sweeten the crust; however, it can be omitted if desired.
The cider vinegar is used to help "shorten" the crust, improving the flaky texture. Though you might smell the vinegar as you roll the crust, you should not be able to taste or smell it in the finished pies.
21/4 cups {9.6 ounces} flour
Generous 1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 cup cold shortening
1/2 cup {1 stick} cold butter, cut into 1.2-inch cubes
2 1/2 teaspoons cider vinegar
4 to 6 tablespoons ice water, more if needed
To make the dough using a food processor, pulse together the flour, salt and sugar until thoroughly combined. Add the shortening and pulse until incorporated {the dough will look like moist sand.}
Add the butter and pulse just until the butter is reduced to pea-sized pieces. Sprinkle the vinegar and 4 tablespoons water over the mixture, and pulse a few times to form the dough, then a few more times just until the dough begins to clump together to form a cohesive dough. If the dough is too crumbly and dry, pulse in additional water, 1 tablespoon at a time.
Remove the dough and mold it into a disk roughly 6 to 8 inches in diameter.
Cover the disk tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours, preferably overnight.
Alternatively, to make the dough by hand, whisk together the flour, salt and sugar in a large bowl. Add the shortening and incorporate using a pastry cutter or fork {the dough will look like moist sand.}
Cut in the butter just until it is reduced to pea-size pieces. Sprinkle the vinegar and 4 tablespoons water over the mixture, and stir together until the ingredients are combined to form a dough.
Remove the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead a few times until it comes together in a single mass. If the dough is too crumbly and dry, gently work in additional water, 1 tablespoon at a time.
Mold the dough into a disk roughly 6 to 8 inches in diameter.
Cover the disk tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours, preferably overnight.
Each of 6 servings:
385 calories

5 grams protein
37 grams carbohydrates
1 gram fiber
24 grams fat
12 grams saturated fat
41 mg cholesterol
3 grams sugar
390 mg sodium

Curried Lamb Hand Pies

Total time: 1 hour, 40 minutes, plus chilling time for the filling and pies
Servings: 12
NOTE: The lamb can be replaced with lean ground beef if preferred.
4 tablespoons oil, divided
1 onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
4 teaspoons curry powder, or to taste
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons freshly grated ginger
1 pound lamb
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1 teaspoon pepper
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 large boiling potato, cut into 1/4-inch dice {peeled or unpeeled}
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/2 cup beef or vegetable broth
1/2 cup fresh or frozen peas
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Prepared pie dough for 2 single crust {9-to10-inch} pies, 36 to 40 ounces
2 beaten eggs
1. In a large saute pan heated over medium-high heat until hot, add 2 tablespoons oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion begins to soften. stir in the curry powder, cumin and coriander and cook until the spices are aromatic and begin to toast, 1 to 2 minutes. Add garlic and ginger, stirring to combine.
2. Stir in the ground lamb, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until the lamb is lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Taste the lamb and adjust the seasoning if desired. Add the wine and cook, scraping any flavorings from the bottom of the pan. Remove from heat and spoon the meat into a bowl.
3. In the same pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat until hot. Add potato and cook, stirring frequently, until it just begins to brown. Stir in the carrot and broth. Cover the pan and steam the potatoes and carrots just until they are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. {Check while stirring to make sure the potato does not stick to bottom of the pan.} Uncover the pan and add the peas, then the meat mixture, stirring to combine. Stir in the cilantro. Taste again and adjust the seasoning and spices if desired.
4. Remove from heat and spread the filling onto a sheet pan, then refrigerate it until the filling is chilled. This makes about 5 cups filling, more than is needed for 12 pies; the filling can be warmed and eaten, added to a soup, stew or other dishes as desired. The filling will keep for up to 4 days; covered and refrigerated.
5. Divide the prepared pie dough into 12 even pieces, about 3 ounces each, and shape each into a small disk. On a lightly floured board, carefully roll each piece into a circle about 6 inches in diameter and about one-eighth-inch thick. The dough will be flaky and will probably crack on the edges; without working the dough too much, gently mold the dough with your hands as it's rolled to form as perfect a circle as possible. Carefully set the circle aside and continue rolling until all of the circles are formed.
6. Assemble the hand pies: Brush the inside of each circle with a very light coating of beaten egg, brushing all the way to the edge of the circle. Place roughly one-fourth cup of the lamb filling in the center, slightly off to one side {to make it easier to fold over the dough to form the hand pie.}, but leaving a 1-inch border around the edge on one side. Carefully-this can be tricky-fold over half of the dough, lining the edges up to form a half-circle; you may need to support the dough as it's folded over to keep it from cracking. Gently press the edges down to seal the pie. Trim the edges to clean them up, or gently brush the top of the edge of each pie, then fold the edge again for a cleaner-looking side. Continue until all 12 pies are formed.
7. Place the prepared pies on 2 parchment-lined baking sheets and refrigerate them, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 400 degrees.
8. Remove the chilled pies and brush them with the egg wash. Use a small knife to slash 2 to 3 small steam vents in the top of each pie.
9. Bake the pies, 1 sheet at a time {refrigerate the other sheet until ready to bake}, on the center rack until the pastry is puffed and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Rotate the pies halfway through baking for even coloring. Cool on a rack. The pies can be served warm or at room temperature.
Each hand pie:
496 calories
11 grams protien
42 grams carbohydrates
2 grams fiber
31 grams fat
14 grams saturated fat
87 mg cholesteral

3 grams sugar 760 mg sodium

Chocolate-Cherry Pockets...

The sweet cherry filling will make everyone reach for seconds.
Preheat oven to 375 F.
1/2 cup butter, softened
1  3-ounce package cream cheese, softened
1 1/2 cups powdered sugar
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cherry preserves
2 tablespoons snipped dried cherries
1 teaspoon brandy {optional}
4 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
2 teaspoons shortening
In a large mixing bowl beat butter and cream cheese with electric mixer on medium to high speed for 30 seconds. Add sugar, cocoa powder, baking powder, soda, and salt; beat until combined. Beat in egg and vanilla. Beat in as much of the flour as you can with the mixer. Stir in any remaining flour. Divide dough in half. Cover and chill about 2 hours or until dough is easy to handle.
For cherry filling, in a small bowl stir together cherry preserves, dried cherries, and if desired, brandy.
Preheat oven to 375 F.
Line two cookie sheets with foil, set aside. On a lightly floured surface, roll half the dough at a time until about 1/8 inch thick. Cut dough using a 3-inch scalloped or plain round cutter. Place cutouts 1/2-inch apart on prepared cookie sheets. Spoon a scant 1 teaspoon of the cherry filling on to the center of each cutout. Brush edges with water. Fold each cutout in half over filling. Using your fingers, gently press edges to seal.
Bake for 8 to 9 minutes or until edges are firm. Transfer to wire racks set over waxed paper and let cool.

In a heavy small saucepan combine chocolate and shortening, stir over low heat until mixture is melted. Cool slightly. Spoon chocolate mixture into a heavy resealable plastic bag. Snip a small corner off bag; drizzle chocolate over cookies. Let stand until chocolate sets. Makes about 30 cookies.