HERITAGE TURKEYS..

Before the large, plump Broad-Breasted White turkey became ubiquitous in our grocery stores, we had a range of other turkey breeds, prized for their productivity and the beauty of their feathers. Among them were the Black, Bronze, Narragansett, Bourbon Red, White Holland, and Jersey Buff. They had long legs, slim bodies, and  an even ratio of dark to white meat. Compared with the Broad-Breasted White, they were richer and fuller in flavor. In the last several years, these birds-known as heritage turkeys-have made something of a comeback, thanks to the efforts of organizations like the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy http//www.albc-usa.org and to consumers' desire for less industrialized food. Unlike the Broad-Breasteds, which reach full size in about 18 weeks and usually can't live longer than a year, heritage turkeys grow slowly and can live as long as 7 years. Because they're genetically healthier, they're strong and fit enough to endure outdoors, run and even fly, and mate naturally, none of which the factory-bred Broad-Breasted Whites can do. If you're interested in tasting a turkey that's much closer to what the Pilgrims had for Thanksgiving, you might want to try a heritage bird. Since supply is limited and the turkeys mature slowly, order early-in the spring. These lean, firm birds benefit from being brined first {see Roast Turkey with Sage-Garlic Butter for a method} and from long slow cooking. Where to find Heritage Turkeys: Order through gourmet grocery stores or try these sources: Mary's Free-Range Turkeys, in Madera, California {delivers through local grocery stores in 42 states: http://www.marysturkeys.com. Or try: LocalHarvest http//www.localharvest.org , for heritage turkeys, and you'll get listings for turkey farmers in your area.