When Tomatoes Fail, Citrus Adds Zing To Salads.

The cook's year can be divided in two: tomato and non-tomato. But sometimes, even the best-intentioned, most locavore-crazy among us so crave a sweet, tart bite in our salads that we break down and grab one of those cottony out-of-season tennis balls. You've done it too. Don't try to deny it.

In some cases, though, there's an easy alternative. Because happily for us, beneficent nature has ensured that the not-tomato months pair up perfectly with the drowning-in-citrus ones. And in a lot of dishes, a little bit of citrus will give you just what you were hankering for-certainly a lot better than an out-of-season tomato.

This is not a universal solution by any means. I'm trying to picture laying a slice of grapefruit on top of my hamburger. But it does work out often enough that it's worth exploring.

The first time I tried it was more or less by accident. It was dinner time, and I had some lettuce and some cheese. And not much else. But, wait, my neighbors Floyd and Carol had dropped off a snack of tangerines-perfectly balanced between tart and sweet. What if I put some of those in the salad along with some hazelnuts? I tried it first with crumbled blue cheese, which seemed kind of a natural because they are so often served together. Wrong! The citrus seemed to bring out every bit od bitterness in the Gorgonzola. And when you taste the cheese that way, there is actually quite a lot. Then my husband suggested trying the same salad with some fresh goat cheese. Amazing! The combination, dressed with a vinaigrette made with hazelnut oil and Champagne vinegar, harmonized perfectly. {Hint: When making a vinaigrette with hazelnut oil, cut it with an equal amount of canola or another neutral oil-it's just too rich on its own.}

And then my little cook's mind started racing. What other combinations might work? There's the now classic combination of beets and blood oranges, of course. Though you're just as likely to see navels, Cara Caras or even grapefruit, all used to great effect and demonstrating that, though citrus are different from each other, they're not that different. For recipe purposes, use what you have, they're fairly interchangeable.

A couple of nights later, faced with the happy dilemma of having some leftover Dungeness crab {I have no idea how that happened}, I shaved some fennel very thin and made another salad with wedges of pink grapefruit and some torn-up arugula from my garden.

The only trick to this salad is cutting the grapefruit it's called "supremeing" in kitchen parlance {you have to say it like a Frenchman or it sounds like you're doing Diana Ross imitation}. You slice off the top and bottom of the whole fruit, then cut off the rest of the peel, carefully following the line of the flesh. Then you slice free each grapefruit segment, separating it from the tougher membrane. This isn't necessary with more tender citrus, such as tangerines, but with grapefruit and oranges, it's a good idea. And once you get the hang of it, it's a nice little Zen exercise.

Those are just a couple of examples. I have to admit that at this point I have the feeling I've just scratched the surface. I'm sure I'll find some more. We've still got a couple of not-tomato-er, citrus-months left.

TANGERINE, BUTTER LETTUCE AND GOAT CHEESE SALAD.

Total time: 30 minutes
Servings: 4

1/3 cup hazelnuts
2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
Salt
2 teaspoons minced shallots
3 tablespoons hazelnut oil
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 pound tangerines, peeled, broken into segments and stripped of any pithy strings
1 head butter lettuce, cored and torn into bite-sized pieces {about 4 cups}
3 ounces crumbled goat cheese

1. Toast the hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet in a 400-degree oven until they smell toasty, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and immediately cover with a damp kitchen towl. Let stand 10 minutes, then wrap the hazelnuts in the towl and rub to remove as much of the papery skin as possible. Chop coarsely; you should have about one-fourth cup.
2. Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, one-half teaspoon salt and shallots in a small bowl and let stand 10 minutes to let shallots soften. Whisk in the hazelnut and vegetable oil.
3. Combine the hazelnuts and butter lettuce in a large bowl. Pour over just enough of the dressing to moisten lightly, tossing gently. Season to taste with more salt if necessary. Arrange the lettuce on a platter in a low mound.
4. Add the tangerines to the same work bowl and toss to coat lightly with any vinaigrette remaining in the bowl. Scatter the tangerines over the top of the lettuce. Scatter the crumbled goat cheese over the top and serve immediately.

Each serving: 265 calories; 7 grams protein; 8 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 23 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 16 mg cholesterol; 257 mg sodium; 5 grams sugar.

Pink Grapefruit And Fennel Salad With Crab.

Total time: 20 minutes
Servings: 4

2 pink grapefruit
1 head fennel
1/4 red onion
Salt
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup torn arugula
4 ounces lump Dungeness crab meat

1. Peel the grapefruit and cut it into sections: Using a very sharp knife, cut off the top and bottom of the grapefruit, so it will sit flat on the cutting board. Starting where you see the pink grapefruit separate from the pith, cut away one section of peel and pith, following the line of the fruit. This will expose the underlying fruit. Continue cutting away sections of the peel and pith until only fruit remains. When you're done, go back over the fruit, removing any traces of pith.
2. Working over a small bowl to catch the juice, slice the fruit into sections-make a cut between the fruit and membrane, then do the same on the other side, freeing pure fruit. Repeat until you have removed all the fruit from the membrane. Squeeze any juice from the remaining membrane into the bowl. You will need about 2 tablespoons.
3. Quarter the fennel length-wise and remove the trianglular core at the center. Use a mandolin or a very sharp knife to slice the fennel as thin as possible, about one-eighth inch; you'll have about 3 cups, lightly packed. Do the same with the red onion; you'll have about one-half cup. Combine the fennel and red onion in a large bowl.
4. Add one-half teaspoon salt and the red pepper flakes to the reserved grapefruit juice and whisk in the olive oil.
5. Toss the fennel with just enough of the dressing to lightly moisten it. Arrange the fennel on a platter in a low mound.
6. Add the arugula to the same bowl and toss to moisten it; you may need to add another teaspoon of vinaigrette. Arrange the arugula on top of the fennel.
7. Add the grapefruit and crabmeat to the same bowl and toss very gently to avoid breaking up the citrus or the crab. You want it barely moistened; if you need, add another teaspoon of vinaigrette. Arrange this on top of the arugula and serve immediately

Each serving: 224 calories; 8 grams protein; 18 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 14 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 21 mg cholesterol; 284 mg sodium; 8 grams sugar.

.

Hazelnut Broccoli.

2 packages {10 oz. each} frozen broccoli {or 1 1/2 lb. fresh, chopped}
2 tablespoons margarine
3 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon powdered chicken stock base
1 1/2 cups low fat milk
1/4 cup water
1 cup herb stuffing mix
1/4 cup roasted hazelnuts, coarsely chopped

Cook broccoli until tender, drain thoroughly, put into a slightly oiled 1 1/2 quart casserole.
In a saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon margarine, blend in flour and chicken stock base to make a smooth paste.
Gradually add milk and cook, stirring frequently until thick and smooth.
Mix into broccoli.
Heat water and remaining 1 tablespoon margarine until melted; pour over stuffing mix and hazelnuts and toss. Top broccoli with hazelnut mixture.
Bake, uncovered, at 400 degrees for 20 minutes.
Serves 6.

Ratatouille Provencale.

2 1/2 cups cubed eggplant {1/2 inch}
1/4 cup thinly sliced onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 green peppers, sliced
2 cups quartered tomatoes
3 cups sliced zucchini {1/2 inch thick}
1 teaspoon oregano leaves
Pepper to taste

Saute onions and garlic in olive oil. Add green peppers, tomatoes, and zucchini; saute until heated. Add eggplant, oregano, and pepper. Cook very slowly in covered dish about 15 minutes longer.
May be served hot or cold.
Serves 8.

Herbed Brussels Sprouts.

1 pound Brussels sprouts
1 small onion, sliced
1 tablespoon margarine
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon thyme
1/4 teaspoon oregano
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup chopped parsley

Steam Brussels sprouts and onions 15 minutes or until tender. In a skillet, melt margarine and saute garlic until browned. Add Brussels sprouts, onion, and herbs except parsley. Gently stir and cook until vegetables are heated through. Sprinkle parsley over sprouts before serving.
Serves 4.

Dill Cabbage.

1/3 cup chicken broth
4 cups cabbage, coarsely shredded
1/2 cup carrots, coarsely shredded
1/4 cup sliced green onions
1/2 teaspoon dill
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon margarine
1 tablespoon filberts, chopped
1/2 teaspoon mustard

In large saucepan, mix cabbage, carrots, green onions, dill, and pepper in chicken broth.
Cook, covered, over medium heat until tender, about 5 minutes.
Melt margarine and mix in filberts and mustard. Pour over vegetables.
Serves 6.